Camellias

Camellias

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Named by Linnaeus in 1735 in honour of the Jesuit clergyman and naturalist Georg Josef Kamel, Camellia is a genus originating generally from China but with a range exterior a large area of South East Asia. The exact number of species is not clear but it is somewhere colse to 100. Camellia is an foremost market genus because of one species, Camellia sinensis, the plant from which tea is made. What I said. It isn't the conclusion that the real about Diameter. You look at this article for home elevators an individual want to know is Diameter. Diameter Most gardeners recognise two main groups of camellias, the autumn flowering and the spring flowering. However, it is not quite that simple. Whenever a genus of many species (such as Rhododendron, Rosa or Camellia) is used to produce a multitude of hybrids sure groups tend to form. There are four main camellia groups: Japonica, Reticulata, Sasanqua and Hybrid, with a number of smaller groups based colse to less tasteless species, such as Camellia hiemalis, and inter-specific hybrids, such as Camellia × williamsii (Camellia japonica × Camellia saluensis). It's a ordinarily held confidence among gardeners that Sansanquas are the autumn flowering camellias while the rest are spring flowerers. That's not verily true, verily the Sasanquas are regularly the first to bloom but with true choice and siting it is possible to have more or less continuous flowering from early autumn to late spring. Cultivation Camellias are often connected with rhododendrons and azaleas and, while not that closely related, they verily prefer similar conditions. This is not at all surprising as they come from similar climates and can often be found growing together in the wild. Camellias are ordinarily less tolerant of greatest cold than the hardiest rhododendrons but they are by no means fussy plants. Most species and hybrids are hardy throughout the country, needing no security except perhaps in very cold winter areas, and the summers here are not regularly hot and dry enough to cause much damage. To get the best out of your camellias it is foremost that you succeed the same soil making ready methods as recommended for rhododendrons. Camellias have stronger and deeper roots but they still require the same moist, humus filled, loose, well-oxygenated topsoil if they are to thrive. Likewise quarterly mulching is all the time beneficial. Camellias prefer a neutral to acid soil and will not tolerate the greatest acidity that most rhododendrons will. On very acid soils the expanding of small amounts of dolomite lime will not only increase the pH but will allow easier uptake of nutrients. Once established most camellias seem to get by quite well without too much attention but they are subject to the same chlorosis problems as rhododendrons so occasional supplementary feeding is recommended. Containerised camellias should be fed regularly as they are far more subject to deficiencies due to their exiguous root spread. Camellias do best in sheltered positions in light shade or where they get only morning sun. This is not so much for the plant's sake as the flowers'. The plants will tolerate exposed sunny sites but the flowers won't. Too dense shade will promote lank increase and reduce flowering. Too sunny and the flowers will burn and drop prematurely. A site that is exposed to strong winds will dramatically shorten the life of any flowers but especially camellias. Disbudding Many camellias set large quantities of flower buds that often succeed in densely crowded small bloom. Thinning out the more densely packed and weaker flower buds will produce larger blooms of better shape. Propagation Camellias are not all the time easy to propagate without specialised equipment. Seed germinates well but is of exiguous usefulness as it can only be used to raise new cultivars or to propagate species. Excellent forms must be propagated vegetatively. Cuttings should be taken just as the new increase is hardening off. This is regularly colse to the end of November. Take new tip increase cuttings that are about 100-150 mm long and succeed the procedures outlined in the propagation chapter. The cuttings may take several months to assault without mist or bottom heat. Layering is very prosperous with camellias but frequently there are no branches close enough to ground level to layer. In such cases aerial layering is a reliable, if slow, method. Occasionally a camellia cultivar fails to achieve well on its own roots. In which case grafting onto a more vigorous stock may be necessary. Suitable camellias are nearly all the time produced by grafting rather than simply training a Suitable stem. Cleft grafting is the usual formula used, however, saddle grafts and side wedges will work too. Budding is seldom used but there is no intuit why it shouldn't be successful. Specialised methods, such as seed grafts, are sometimes used but these are for genuine enthusiasts that are prepared to experiment. Pests And Diseases Camellias are relatively disease free but you may occasionally encounter one of the following problems. Viral diseases These are quite tasteless among camellias, in fact, viruses are sometimes deliberately introduced to gather variegated flowers and foliage. The most tasteless virus shows up as a captivating yellow leaf margin. This is known as virus induced variegation. In minor cases it does exiguous harm but it can weaken a plant by reducing the number of available chlorophyll. Virus diseases cannot be cured, once infected the plant remains infected. Phytophthora root rot This disease affects many types of plants, particularly those that prefer acid woodland conditions. This fungus disease kills the plant's roots, which leads to the characteristic wilted appearance and ultimately death. ordinarily the symptoms are not sure until too late. Arresting through ensuring that the soil is well drained is the best method. Plants can sometimes be saved by washing off the soil, removing the dead roots, drenching with fungicide then replanting in a well-drained position but it's seldom worth the effort. Leaf gall A fungal disease similar to that seen on evergreen azaleas occasionally occurs on camellias. It causes a thickening and distorting of the leaves, which is at last become white with fungal spores. Remove any affected leaves and spray the plant with a fungicide. Do not allow affected leaves to drop near the plant. Petal blight This fungal disease cause the flowers to degenerate to watery mush and can damage much of the crop. Control with fungicides prior to bud break and Remove any fallen petals from colse to infected bushes. Die-back This can be a serious, even fatal, problem. The foliage of young branches wilts and browns then the stem begins to die back from the tip. A canker develops that at last ringbarks the stem causing its death. If the cankers spread to the main stems the plant may die. Medicine with fungicides will help but is not entirely successful. Overcrowding, poor drainage and poor ventilation can all contribute to this problem as well as making the spread of the disease easier. Camellias are ordinarily not attacked by any particularly unusual insect pests, just the run of the mill, aphids, scale, caterpillars, leaf rollers and thrips. The usual Control measures are effective on camellias too. Bagworms can cause important damage at times. The leaf covered silken bags (see illustration) are made by the larvae and the flightless adult females of the moth Liothula omnivora. The larvae feed from within the bag, which they carry colse to with them for security and camouflage. Hand picking is the simplest control, the use of insecticides is not warranted except in cases of severe infestation. Training Besides their general bushy habit many camellias are convenient subjects for training. The most tasteless forms are the Suitable and the espalier. Standards can be created in two ways. The easiest is to pick a young plant with a singular straight stem and simply Remove the lower foliage and any side shoots as they appear. Stake the main stem as it grows and once it has reached the desired height nip out the tip increase to induce the branching that will at last form the head. The process can be speeded up by grafting but the mechanics are not as simple. pick a vigorous upright plant that will rapidly produce the Suitable trunk and graft your Excellent cultivar onto it at the desired height. Cleft grafts are the beloved formula for camellias but I have found side wedge grafts to be successful. Grafting is the only practical way to produce a weeping standard. Espaliering is just a matter of selecting an Suitable plant and having the patience to wait long enough to see the results. There are several methods of training the branches to achieve the best coverage but most camellias with thin pliable stems (primarily Sasanquas) can be espaliered with exiguous effort. Remember though, camellias are not natural climbers, espaliers need to be secured to the buildings against which they are growing. Other special forms. Camellias can make effective hedges, whether tightly clipped or grown informally. As might be foreseen, of a genus that contains the tea plant camellias can withstand frequent trimming when actively growing. Some camellias are convenient for use as ground covers but regularly only while they are young. In time all but the most prostrate forms will fabricate into mounding bushes rather than true ground covers. Pegging the branches down as the plants grow is the only way to ensure this doesn't happen. Camellias in containers Camellias adapt well to package growing but they are quick to show signs of nutrient deficiencies. Nothing looks less captivating than a badly chlorotic camellia in a tiny pot. However, with quarterly fertilising and the right sized containers camellias will thrive and bloom heavily in pots. As with all package plants, remember that their roots are far less insulated from the elements than those of plants in the open ground. Make sure containerised camellias get quarterly water in summer and in cold winter areas move the containers to sheltered positions for winter to avoid having the soil freeze solid. Flower forms Camellias are available in several distinct flower forms. The descriptions in this book are kept as straightforward as possible but occasionally the technical terms must be used. The terms single, semi-doubleand double are customary and fairly self-explanatory but most of the following terms are peculiar to camellia cultivation. Anemone A style with large outer petals and massed small central petaloids. Peony (paeony) and informal double Large outer petals and smaller loosely clustered central petals and petaloids. The more fully petalled flowers are known as full peony form. Rose form double A double flower that opens fully to spin the stamens, like a fully blown rose. Formal double This flower type has perfectly arranged concentric circles of neatly overlapping petals. Some have the petals in a very clearly defined spiral pattern. There are also rules governing the terms used to spin the size of flowers but as most non-specialist gardeners find these to be more confusing than useful they have not been strictly adhered to. Species and cultivars The following choice of species and cultivars includes those most beloved for organery use or that have captivating or unusual features. They are divided into hybrid groups. Species These are the most beloved or influential of the species but they are not widely available in nurseries, most gardeners preferring the hybrids. Camellia chrysantha (China) A yellow camellia was a long sought after aim of plant breeders, hence the basically white cultivars with optimistic names such as 'Brushfield's Yellow'. However, in 1980 a real yellow camellia was found in the Guangxi province of China. It flowered for the first time in the West in 1984 and has since been the subject of great interest and venture among camellia growers. It is a large species that can reach 5 m high. The large leaves are deep green and heavily veined. The captivating yellow flowers are only about 60 mm diameter but it is not the size of the flowers but their possible for hybridising that initially had breeders so enthused. Reasonably hardy but prefers consistent cool to moderate temperatures, intolerant of extremes. Camellia societies have a few plants of this species but even now it is not ordinarily available through organery centres. Camellia forrestii (China, Vietnam) A large shrub or small tree native with narrow elliptical leaves and small white flowers that are mildly fragrant. Early to mid season. Camellia fraterna (China) Grows to about 5 m high. Small elliptical leaves. 25 mm diameter white flowers with white stamens and foremost gold anthers. Slightly fragrant. Not totally hardy. Flowers mid season. Camellia granthamiana (Hong Kong) Very rare in the wild; known, until recently, from just one plant found in 1955. It may be a natural hybrid rather than a true species. Grows to about 3 m high. Deep green heavily veined elliptical leaves up to 200 mm long. Creamy white flowers up to 150 mm diameter with massed golden stamens. Flowers early. Not totally hardy. Camellia hiemalis (Japan) Not known in the wild and probably a natural hybrid between Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua. Grows to about 3.5 m high. 30 mm diameter pale pink flowers with golden stamens. Small to medium sized elliptical leaves. Flowers early. Camellia kissi (North East India to Southern China) May grow as high as 12 m but regularly consideably smaller. Medium sized narrow leaves. Small white flowers that are regularly fragrant. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia lutchuensis (Southern Japan including Okinawa) Grows to about 3 m high. Small leaves about 40 mm long. Very fragrant 50 mm diameter white flowers with white stamens and gold anthers. Not all the time easy to grow and not totally hardy. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia japonica (Japan, Eastern China and Korea) The parent of a vast number of cultivars. May grow to 15 m high in the wild. Broad deep green elliptical leaves up to 125mm long. The flower colour is variable but is regularly red. verily grown. Flowers mid season. There are several cultivated forms. Camellia oleifera (Northern India, Southern China and South East Asia) Grows to about 7 m high. Medium sized elliptical leaves with exiguous or no serrations. Small white flowers with yellow stamens and slightly twisted petals. Mildly fragrant. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia pitardii (Southern China) Grows to about 7 m high. Medium sized heavily veined leaves up to 100 mm long. Small white, pink or white flushed pink flowers. Blooms mid season to late. Camellia reticulata (Southern China) Extensively used in hybridising. Grows up to 15 m high in the wild. Large broad elliptical leaves with foremost veins (reticulate). 75 mm diameter mid pink flowers. Blooms mid season to late. Camellia salicifolia (Hong Kong and Taiwan) Grows to about 5 m high. 45 mm long narrow elliptical to oblong leaves with a very exiguous tomentum. Loose white flowers with white stamens. Mild fragrance. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia saluenensis (Southern China) Grows to about 5 m high. 45 mm long narrow elliptical leaves. 50 mm diameter white to mid pink flowers with small golden stamens. May be singular or semi-double. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia sasanqua (Japan and Ryukyu Islands) Grows to about 5 m high. The leaves are colse to 55 mm long , regularly narrow and distinctly pointed. 50 mm diameter white to pale pink flowers with yellow stamens. Occasionally slightly fragrant. Flowers early. Camellia sinensis (India to China and South East Asia) The tea plant is the most commercially foremost camellia. May grow to 15 m high but regularly kept much smaller. Leaf size is variable; they are regularly colse to 125 mm long but in mild moist climates they may be up to 225 mm long × 75 mm wide, heavily veined. White flowers (occasionally pale pink), about 40 mm diameter with yellow stamens. Flowers early. Camellia transnokensis (Taiwan) An upright bush to about 3 m high. Small bronze green leaves. Clusters of very small (25 mm diameter) white flowers with white stamens and golden anthers. Pink buds. Flowers mid season to late. Camellia tsai (Southern China, Burma and Vietnam) Grows to about 10 m high in the wild but regularly far smaller in gardens. 90 mm long slick bronze green elliptical leaves. exiguous weeping increase habit. Clusters of small white flushed pink flowers. Mildly fragrant. Flowers mid season. Not totally hardy. Sasanqua and Hiemalis A group of primarily early flowering plants (autumn to late winter) that is made up of varieties and hybrids of three species; Camellia sasanqua, Camellia hiemalis and Camellia vernalis. Akebono Small deep green leaves. singular mid pink flowers. Exquisite hedge or espalier. Bonanza Medium to large semi-double deep red flowers. Long flowering season. Medium sized plant, upright growth. Good in tubs. Bonsai Baby Small deep red double flowers. Low, somewhat spreading increase habit. Chansonette Large deep pink double flowers with slightly ruffled petals. A densely foliage medium sized bush. convenient for most styles of training. Cotton Candy Large soft pink semi-double flowers with slightly ruffled petals. Strong growing but inclined to be rather open and benefits from quarterly trimming to shape. Exquisite Large very pale pink singular flowers with ruffled and lobed petals. Long branches make it well-suited to espaliering. Hiryu-see Kanjiro Jennifer Susan Soft mid pink loosely petalled semi-double flowers. Very densely foliage contract growth. Makes a good hedge or espalier. Kanjiro Often sold as 'Hiryu'. Deep cerise pink singular to semi-double flowers with lighter coloured centre. Dark green leaves. Strong upright growth. Mine No Yuki Medium sized white to cream semi-double flowers with ruffled petals. Loose pendulous increase habit. Plantation Pink Large mid pink singular flowers. Very strong growing and makes a quick hedge. Setsugekka Large white semi-double with ruffled, slightly incurving petals. Strong growing upright bush. Showa No Sakae Medium sized light to mid pink loose semi-double flowers. Distinctly weeping to horizontal increase habit. May be used in hanging baskets. Sparkling Burgundy Small to medium sized deep pinkish red double flowers. Long flowering season. Vigorous grower. convenient for most training styles. Yuletide Small captivating red singular flowers with foremost golden stamens. Long flowering season. Dense contract growth. Does well in tubs. Japonica The species forms and hybrids of Camellia japonica are among the most beloved and widely grown camellias. Also included in this group are the Higo hybrids. These often aged forms from Japan are not widely grown in New Zealand but a few are available. The following is a choice of some of the most beloved Japonicas. Ave Maria (1956) Pale pink medium sized formal double. Dense contract growth. Early to mid season. Bambino (1959) Small coral pink anemone form with well-defined petaloid centre. Dense contract growth. Flowers mid season. Berenice Boddy (1946) Medium sized light pink semi-double. Vigorous grower. Flowers mid season. Betty Sheffield consummate (1960) Large loose white or very pale pink double with petals edged in deep pink. A gorgeous picotee succeed but rather variable. A sport of 'Betty Sheffield' (1949). A vigorous, yet contract bush. Flowers mid season. Blood of China (1928) Medium sized deep pinkish red semi-double to peony form. Often mildly scented. Strong grower but compact. Late flowering. Bob Hope (1972) Large deep blackish red semi-double. Very intense flower colour and deep green leaves. Strong upright growth. Mid season to late. Bob's Tinsie (1962) Small deep red anemone form with a white centre. Upright, very dense and bushy. Flowers mid season. Brushfield's Yellow (1968) Medium sized anemone form with white outer petals and creamy yellow petaloid centre. Strong growing but densely foliaged. Flowers mid season. C.M. Hovey (1853) Medium sized deep red formal double. Upright growth. Late flowering. Can Can (1961) Medium sized light pink peony form with deep cerise pink edged petals and veins. Upright growth. Flowers mid season. Debutante (around 1900) Medium sized light pink full paeony form. A strong growing densely foliage bush. Leaves may be a lighter green than most camellias. One of the most widely planted camellias. Flowers mid season. Desire (1977) Medium sized light pink formal double with deeper coloured petal edges. Dense contract growth. Flowers mid season. Dolly Dyer (1973) Small captivating red anemone form with a densely packed petaloid centre. A medium sized densely foliaged bush. Flowers early to mid season. Elegans consummate (1960) Large deep pink anemone form with finely serrated petal edges. One of several sports of the old cultivar 'Elegans' (1831). Large wavy edged leaves. A strong growing but contract bush. Flowers early to mid season. Grand Slam (1962) Large deep red semi-double or anemone form. Slightly fragrant. Deep green leaves. A very strong growing upright bush. Flowers mid season. Guest of Honor (1955) Large mid to deep pink loose semi-double to peony form. Upright densely foliaged bush. Heavy flowering. Blooms mid season. Guillio Nuccio (1956) Very large deep coral pink semi-double with foremost stamens. The petals have wavy edges. Strong growing and very popular. Flowers mid season. Also available in a white and red variegated flower form. K. Sawada (1940) Large white rose form or formal double. Dense bushy growth. Flowers mid season. Kramer's consummate (1957) Large captivating red full peony form. regularly fragrant. Vigorous yet contract growth. Flowers mid season. Laurie Bray (1955) Medium to large light pink flowers that may be singular or partially petaloid semi-double. Heavy flowering, tough and adaptable. Rather open increase that benefits from shaping when young. Flowers mid season. Man Size (1961) Small white anemone form. A densely foliaged medium sized bush if shaped when young but may otherwise tend to somewhat open growth. Flowers heavily colse to mid season. Margaret Davis (1961) Medium sized informal double. White with petals edged deep pink to orange red. Upright growth. Flowers mid season. Mark Alan (1958) Large deep purplish red semi-double or peony form. Narrow petals with a petaloid centre. Upright growth. Starts early and flowers over a long season. Midnight (1963) Medium sized deep red semi-double to anemone form. A dense contract bush. Flowers mid season. Mrs D.W. Davis (1954) Very large captivating pink semi-double. Densely foliaged vigorous upright growing bush. Flowers mid season. Nuccio's Pearl (1977) Medium sized very pale pink flushed mid pink formal double. An captivating 'airbrushed' colour succeed that intensifies towards the centre and edges of the flower. A dense contract bush. Flowers mid season. Pink Pagoda (1963) Medium to large mid pink formal double. Slightly wavy edged petals. An upright bush. Flowers mid season. Prima Ballerina (1983) Medium to large semi-double. White base colour washed with soft mid pink. A dense contract bush. Flowers mid season to late. Roger Hall (1979) Medium sized captivating red formal double. A strong growing upright bush. Starts early and flowers over a long season. San Dimas (1971) Medium to large deep red petaloid semi-double. Dense contract bush. Flowers early to mid season. Tiffany (1962) Very large loose peony form. Soft mid pink with deeper tones. Vigorous yet contract bush. Flowers mid season to late. Reticulata Reticulatas are regularly regarded as being less hardy than other camellias but most survive New Zealand winters unscathed. Barbara Clark (1958) Medium sized mid pink semi-double. Vigorous grower. Starts to flower early and continues over a long season. Brian (1958) Medium sized deep pink semi-double. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late. Buddha (1948) Large deep pink semi-double flowers with wavy edged petals. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season. Dr. Clifford Parks (1971) Large captivating red flower. The form is very variable, it ranges from semi-double to peony to anemone form. Flowers mid season. Grand Jury (1962) Large salmon pink peony form. A large open bush that benefits from pruning to shape when young. Flowers mid season. Lasca beauty (1973) Very large light pink semi-double. Vigorous grower that is inclined to become a exiguous open. Flowers mid season. Pavlova (1978) Very large captivating red semi-double. A strong spreading bush. Makes a good espalier. Flowers mid season to late. Phyl Doak (1958) Medium to large pale pink semi-double. A dense contract bush. Starts to flower early and continues over a long season. Sugar Dream (1984) Medium sized mid pink anemone form. Upright growth, inclined to be somewhat open but benefits from trimming to shape when young. Early flowering. Valley M. Knudsen (1958) Large deep pin semi-double to peony form. Strong growing upright bush. Flowers mid season to late. × williamsii hybrids This fairly diverse group of hybrids results from fertilising Camellia saluensis, or a hybrid thereof, with pollen from Camellia japonica. Anticipation (1962) Large deep pink peony form. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season. Ballet Queen (1975) Large salmon pink peony form. A densely foliaged medium sized bush. Flowers mid season to late. Debbie (1965) Large captivating mid pink semi-double to full peony form. A dense contract bush. Flowers mid season. One of the most beloved cultivars. Donation (1941) Large mid pink semi-double with darker veining. Vigorous yet compact. Starts early mid season and continues over a long season. Dreamboat (1976) A large formal double. The base colour is mid pink but has very subtle lavender and salmon pink shading. The increase is somewhat open. Flowers mid season. E.G. Waterhouse (1954) Medium sized light pink formal double. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late. Also available with a light pink and white variegated flower. Elsie Jury (1964) Large deep pink full peony form. Medium sized open growing bush. May be trained as an espalier. Flowers mid season to late. Jury's Yellow (1976) Medium sized anemone form. White with creamy yellow petaloid centre. Dense contract growth. Starts early and flowers over a long season. Water Lily (1967) Medium sized formal double. captivating light pink with darker toning. The petals have distinctly rolled edges. Strong upright growth. Flowers early to mid season. Hybrids This catch-all group covers plants of indeterminate parentage and those that don't fit into any of the other groups. Some authorities divide the hybrids by size, particularly separating out the miniatures. Baby Bear (1976) Miniature light pink single. A small densely foliage bush that is very beloved for package growing. Flowers mid season. Baby Willow (1983) Miniature white single. Very distinctive weeping growth. When grafted it makes a good weeping standard. Flowers mid season. Cinnamon Cindy (1973) Miniature pale pink peony form. The central petaloids may be very pale pink. Upright willowy stems. Espaliers well. Flowers early to mid season. Cornish Snow (1950) Small white tinted pink singular flowers. Very heavy flowering. Upright open growth. Flowers mid season. Itty Bit (1984) Miniature light pink anemone form. A densely foliaged low growing spreading bush. Flowers mid season. Jubilation (1978) Large mid pink rose form double. Occasionally has darker flecked flowers. Strong upright growth. Flowers mid season to late. Mary Phoebe Taylor (1975) Very large mid pink peony form. Strong upright growth. Flowers early to mid season. Nicky Crisp (1980) Large lavender pink semi-double. Dense contract bush. Starts to flower early and continues over a long season. Night Rider (1985) Small deep red semi-double. Upright bush. Flowers mid season to late. Quintessence (1985) Miniature white singular with conspicuous golden yellow anthers and white stamens. Mildly fragrant. Dense spreading growth. Very beloved as a package plant. Flowers early to mid season. Snippet (1971) Small pale pink semi-double. at last a dense contract bush but somewhat open when young. Flowers mid season. Tiny Princess (1961) Miniature semi-double to peony form. White to very pale pink with darker tints. Slow growing and may become rather open but occasional pinching back will produce a neat low bush. Flowers early to mid season. I hope you get new knowledge about Diameter. Where you may offer use in your evryday life. And most importantly, your reaction is passed about Diameter. Read more.. Camellias.